At least I haven't been to this point.
But when you watch the waves for a while it puts a spell on you.
Where they appear. When they break.
When a pipeline appears.
The sound it makes when it crashes.
It almost seems natural to have people on boards doing the same thing. Measuring the waves. Waiting, watching guessing and then matching wits with it on the fly. I never even considered trying to surf until now but I can see why people love it and why it's such a big part of Hawaiian life. And who knows, you may see me on a board yet.
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